Each Chef Should Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.
A Shocking Recognition
This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.
“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Character of Modesty
This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
The Star Dish: Tantuni
Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.
The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.
It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.
Surpassing the Giants
Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.
The Creed of Warmth
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Journey of Dedication
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
A Achievement for the Community
The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.